My Birthday Dinner at the Mall - Per Se Restaurant
10 Columbus Circle (at 60th Street)
4th Floor
New York, NY 10019
212.823.9335
http://www.frenchlaundry.com/perse/pscontactgeneral.htm

This past Sunday was my birthday and I had every intention of not doing much of anything. My wife went shopping and had plans to make a nice dinner of Saltimbocca (veal with proscuitto on top) and then have my family over for cake. The day was going fine and then around 3:30pm I received a phone call. The caller was looking for my wife and said they were from Per Se restaurant. My interest piqued, I decided to handle this one - "I'm her husband Frank, how can I help you?" I said. Apparently, two months ago, my wife had tried to make a reservation for this period of time and nothing was available, but they took her name and put it on a waiting list. Coincidently, on my 30th birthday, a 5:30pm reservation had opened up - even though I had committed to a relaxing evening at home and no fancy, overly expensive dinner, it seemed too good of an opportunity to pass up. My wife hearing all of this, smiled and indicated that I would be crazy not to take the reservation. So, after quickly changing and having my family over for an extremely quick celebration, I was on my way to the Time Warner Center Mall in midtown Manhattan to eat at what is supposed to be one of NYC's finest restaurants.


We arrived at TWCM and parked underground - no sense in trying to find street parking in that area at that time. I called Per Se and they told me to take the escalator to the 4th floor. We entered the mall; it seems like a nice mall with some fancy stores, but ultimately a mall. My wife and I laughed at the irony of it all - going to such a fancy place by taking the escalator with the tourists and masses of shoppers inside a crowded mall. We arrived at the 4th floor and walked over to a balcony to take in the view as we were 15 minutes early. Turning around, I saw Bar Masa restaurant behind us. Maybe one day Masa or Bar Masa could be on our list. Per Se was off to the side. The front doors were two electric blue doors with gold knockers. I knew from articles I read that they were not the real doors and that one of the glass panes on the side slid aside for entrance. In front of this is a garden like arrangement with some benches. We could have sat there but there was a rope in front of the entrance to this area and I decided to wait patiently. Per Se has a small booth with large quantities of its three menus available for the taking by passer-bys. Again, another slightly strange thing for a place Per Se to do - I thought to myself 'Maybe I should drop my preconceived notions of this place because it is a lot quirkier than I anticipated' - which is a good thing after the intimidating formality of Alain Ducasse.

While waiting, some self-important people arrived. All dressed in their fur coats and looking very important. One youngish man and woman, too good to wait, pushed aside the rope and proudly walked up to the blue doors - the guy then spent the next minute trying with all his might to open the fake doors - I loved it - what an ass! Another couple that arrived one minute after we did looked at us and we all smiled knowingly. This idiot kept smiling back sheepishly at the rest of the group and then finally decided to pull back from the doors. The couple next to us waited one more minute and then entered the garden and approached the glass pane - it slid aside and they entered. We brushed past the crowd of nobodies at the entrance to the garden and walked to the pane and entered. I gave my name and the hostesses responded with smiles. We were escorted to a wonderful table - a banquette with soft back pillows in a corner with full view of the entire main dining room. The place only has 15 tables (plus 1 table for larger parties off to the side).

As with Ducasse, they asked us if we wanted champagne and this time we went with a rose' (this blog doesn't allow me to make the character I want to, but you know what I mean!). We had also prepped ourselves for the wine list, so imagine my surprise when they presented it and informed me that they were known for their half-bottle selection! I opened it and found many choices at the $50-$70 range - expensive yes, but well below the $130 we paid at Ducasse. To make things even better, they had one of my FAVORITE producers on the wine menu - Dr. Loosen. We had wine from this vineyard at Charlie Trotter's in Chicago and I have loved it ever since but have not had it ever since. I immediately decided to have that and a pinot noir from California. We already saw the menus outside and decided to go with the Chef's tasting menu ( they also have a vegetarian tasting menu and a holiday tasting menu).

The female server for our table was very friendly. We engaged in actual conversation about our ages, my birthday and where we were from. This was not at all what I expected from Per Se and was so relieved at the thought of eating such a wonderful meal with real human beings serving us. The amuse bouche was brought out - an ice cream cone topped with a salmon mousse and creme fraiche inside. The ice cream cone was crunchy and had a taste almost of wonton wrapper...very nice to start. Next came 'Oysters and Pearls' - pearl tapioca with island creek oysters and topped with caviar. My wife doesn't enjoy any of these elements and normally I might not, but I love good food and the sum of all the parts greatly enhanced the flavor and enjoyment I would derive from eating them alone. I finished mine because of enjoyment; I think she finished hers after doing the mental math of what it would cost if she didn't eat it!

This meal took place a few days ago, so my memory is a little hazy. I write this blog for anyone who cares to read it, but also for myself so I can possibly look back on this years from now and have something to jog my memory of a wonderful event. I think they brought out another off-menu item next. It was an egg shell that contained a black truffle like gravy and a custard on the bottom. inside of this mixed they stuck a chip made of chive. The white custard was supposed to evoke the natural egg. The 'gravy' and this custard blended well into a meaty, savory mix and again was finished.

Next came two different servings - we were asked at the beginning what we each would want at this juncture. I chose a corn polenta and she chose her foie gras. Funny note here - my wife saw a documentary some time back about how geese are prepared for their livers to be removed to be made into foie gras and she was supposedly so shocked she swore she'd never eat it again. I think she passed it up once right after seeing that show and then has had it a few times since - i take pleasure in reminding her of this and she takes pleasure in telling me to shut up. My white corn polenta came inside a crispy shell and covered with somepoached pear and anise-hyssop and sitting on piqullo pepper vierge. Her foie gras was a terrine and came with apple marmalade, crystalized apple ship and balsamic glaze and large pieces of delicious brioche. So far I was thinking two things - the food is wonderful and the food is an eclectic mix.

The Dr. Loosen white wine was everything I remembered - it is sweet and perfectly balanced. I highly recommended you seek out their wines.

Next came the fish - a crispy skin fillet of royal dorade with radishes and pistachio butter and nicose olive oil. This fishy has a slightly fishy taste and smell but is flaky and tastes very good. That dish was okay but the next bit of seafood was magnificent - butter poached novia scotia lobster with chesnut ravioli and brown butter emulsion. The lobster was tender but meaty and sweet. The ravioli was delicious - another pasta surprise at a non-Italian establishment.

Meat dishes would be next. First, pan rosted breast of farmers quail. The leg was stuffed with foie gras and it was all served with french prune, endive and quail jus. Thsi dish was okay - the quail skin was a little rubbery for our taste. Second was a rib-eye of veal - so I ended up having the veal that I so desperately desired. Served with lentils and pearl onions in a veal sauce. It was a very good, substantial piece of meat cooked perfectly pink. I was actually feeling full at this point but the meat was so good that I finished it all. I needed a break a this point but they brought out the per se falafel. Apparantly one of the chefs has a falafel stand in his area that he loves and created one for the restaurant of spiced chickpeas, marinated cucumber and mint infused extra-virgin olive oil. Very nice little bite.

Now I knew desert was coming. First was the palate cleanser of pomegranate sorbet. I love pomegranate and this did not disappoint. The main dessert was a milk chocolate and hezelnut streusel with condensed milk sorbet and covered in salty hazelnuts. Mine had a birthday candle in it. Very good as well. I seemed to remember them providing little bites afterwards - chocolates and butter cookies. I had them pack the delicious butter cookies for me.

The service was timely and refined. Much care was given to presentation. The bathrooms are beautiful. The decor is dark woods and reminded me of Asian influences. The view is quite nice - part of the park and the traffic of the city. If you were outside it wouldnt be so nice, but inside, with no sound it looks serene, especially at night. I thought everyone was very good overall. We left and they gave us a bag with macaroons for the next day - just like Ducasse, except Ducasse's were better. The total bill came to $747, with tax and tip is included (at 18% I believe). When I got home, I was reviewing the bill and realized they overcharged me for a hlaf-bottle of wine. I called and spoke to the maitre de - he apologized as they had accidently charged me for a full instead of half bottle - adjusted bill was $708.

Overall (1 to 10) - 8.8
Total Cost: $708
Positive: Food, decor, friendly staff
Things to consider: Cost