The next big thing?

THE LITTLE OWL

http://thelittleowlnyc.com/
90 Bedford Street (corner of Bedford and Grove)
Phone: 212-741-4695

A few months back, I read something about The Little Owl and made a mental note to go there one day. I asked my wife a few times but she was never really interested. Finally yesterday (Thursday, 7/20/07) we decided we wanted to try a relatively inexpensive, casual place with really solid food. The Little Owl seemed to fit the bill and I even convinced my wife to endure the subway and cab ride over to the place.

I’ve lived in the city for the last 30 years but I still feel like I discover new places all the time. The cab from the West 4^th station to the restaurant (Grove and Bedford) took me through a neighborhood that I was pretty sure I hadn’t been though before. Tree lined, almost quaint feeling, it seemed separated from the rest of the city. The cab pulled up in front of the restaurant which is on the corner of the block. I think one of the streets here was a dead end which even added to the isolated, in-its-own-world feeling even more. Stepping inside, I was surprised by how very small the place was. It really was a neighborhood joint; the kind of place when I fantasize about having my own restaurant I imagine would it would look like. There was a small bar with room for maybe 4 or 5 people. There were maybe 10 tables or so. Everyone was in close quarters but it didn’t seem like anyone minded and it wasn’t the kind of unbearable crowdedness you normally find in some spots where people pack in to see and be seen.

The hostess pointed us to a small table near the window pass to the kitchen. My wife sat on the banquette and I faced the kitchen. The ceiling was painted gold and I have to think it was the original design up there. The gold trim carried throughout the place. Completing this was white washed wood paneling. A very comforting feeling to the place. The kitchen has 3 or 4 large windows that allow you to look in. I was complaining about the heat and humidity outside and in the subway, but it had to be like the Artic compared to what I saw in there. Small with a lot of people in very close quarters, a salamander blasting visible blue flames – they had to feel like they were in Hell in there cooking meals to make everyone happy.

We sat down and a friendly, female server came over. She gave us the menus and a wine list. She recommended that she had 1.5 bottles left of a very special Riesling and I just couldn’t pass up the opportunity.

I started with the sliders and she had the soft shell crab. The sliders were a combination of beef, veal and pork formed into a moist, little meatball. This was served on a small bun – maybe it was parmesan crusted. The meatballs were lightly sauced. Three of them – very good. Almost a meal in of itself. I was soon to realize that the portions here are very generous. The soft shell crab was also very good. A fresh taste of crab. Very juicy. Came on top of a tomato asparagus risotto. For our mains, I went with the pork chop and she got the crispy chicken with asparagus homefries, sherry and Dijon. My pork chop (and the sliders) was probably considered the signature dish or house specialty or most popular (whatever the case it was good). The chop came with pork chop parmesan butter beans and wild dandelion. Again, a nice large portion, well seasoned and very tasty. Her chicken was good, but as with many other places, it was just chicken. A good piece of well cooked, well flavored chicken.

For dessert, I went with a strawberry/rhubarb crisp and she a raspberry beignet (puffs of fried dough, hollow inside). The crisp was delicious- the perfect combination of sweet and tart. It had a very creamy vanilla gelato on top. Her beignets were served too hot. She couldn’t really eat them. She took one taste of my crisp and couldn’t stop after that. I think she eventually had a beignet and thought it was pretty good.

Overall, the place is out of the way and probably likes it that way. I could only wish I was so lucky to have a local place of that high quality. The staff was very nice and according to my friends, the price wasn’t bad. I was expecting something even cheaper, but again, this is NYC. With tax (but not tip) it was $143. 1/2 bottle of red, 1 glass riesling, 2 apps, 2 mains, 2 desserts and 2 coffees - I guess that's a good price. I didn’t mention above, but we finished with an espresso and cappuccino. Would I go back? I don’t think we would. Not because it was bad, it’s just that the city has so many great places and this one is so out of the way. Who knows though? Sometimes you just want a really solid, simple meal in a warm, friendly, unpretentious pace, sort of removed from the bustle of the city and this place definitely delivers in that respect.